Morocco Recap - Part 3
On our last morning in the Sahara, we ventured out of the desert, passing by packs of camels, driving once again through the dunes until we reached the main road again. We were onward to our last stop, Fes.
Our journey to Fes was peaceful and reflective as we quietly drove through the cliffs and valleys of the Middle Atlas Mountains. My heart was full, and I took an opportunity to close my eyes for a few moments as we traveled toward Fes.
When I woke up, we were in a completely new place. Suddenly we were in the forest, surrounded by tall cedar trees. I saw a pack of wild Barbary apes in the road, grabbing bread that was being thrown from a local semi driver.
Barbary apes in the Cèdre Gouraud Forest
I suddenly was wide awake, grabbed all of the fruit I’d taken from the camp (unbeknownst to me what I’d be doing with it), and raced out of the car towards the apes. They were extremely friendly and incredibly eager to steal all of my snacks. They grabbed fruit right from my hand and ran off, jumping into the nearby trees so nobody could steal their treasures.
I could have spent hours feeding the apes, and I cannot wait to go back with my groups in 2023. This time, we’ll be locked and loaded with all the fruit they want!
After the ape adventure, we stopped in Ifrane, also known as “Little Switzerland.” You’d never know you were in Morocco from the looks of this European-esque town. There were cute little chalets topped with stork nests, local coffee shops, and cobblestone streets. A local ski resort was just a few kilometers away, and I had forgotten I was in Morocco yet again.
From Ifrane, we were on the last leg of our journey, and the scenery quickly turned reminiscent of northern Portugal, with vineyards, greenery, and lush landscapes. And before we knew it, we were in Fes.
Our time in Fes was brief, yet impactful. We explored the local medina, a maze of winding alleys with bustling activity around every corner. The Fes Medina is considered as one of the most extensive and best conserved historic towns of the Arab-Muslim world, and I can see why. Once again, I was back on the set of a movie, getting lost in the Medina and taking in the lively ambiance of Fes. We fell asleep that night to the sounds of feral alley cats, but we were too tired to care.
We finished off our last day in Fes (and Morocco) with a city tour with Rostom, a local guide recommended to me by a Fes aficionado. We stopped in many shops, learning about all the goods made by local artisans in the medina. We got carpets, gold plates, scarves, and even had to buy an extra bag so we could get all of our treasures home safely.
One of the coolest parts of Fes is the Chouara Tannery, which dates back to the 11th century. We looked over the balcony to watch the local men dying leather hides down below. One man had the unlucky job of working in the vats full of urine and feces.
Yes, you read that right.
The hides are put into pits filled with cow urine, water and salt for three days, which helps to remove flesh and fur and break down the leather. Next, they’re moved into the vats filled with pigeon feces and water. The ammonia in the bird poop softens the hides and helps them to absorb the dye.
The dyes used in the tannery pits are all natural: blue comes from indigo; red, from poppy or paprika; yellow from saffron, pomegranate, or even a mix of turmeric and mimosa flowers.
The entire process was incredibly interesting and made us appreciate the workmanship that goes into all of their beautiful leather goods that much more.
The Chouara Tannery of Fes
I still can’t get over the fact that this was all the same country. From the vibrant streets of Marrakech to the gorgeous valleys and mountains, the magic of the Sahara, the quaint vineyards in Northern Morocco, and the regality and history of Fes, this country is unbelievably diverse. I knew Morocco was amazing, but I underestimated its magic.
Our riad in Fes
There’s something about discovering a country on the road that you can’t quite get when you fly from city to city. There were days when I was so incredibly tired, but I didn’t dare close my eyes for fear that I’d miss something amazing. There was something new to see around every corner, and I never got bored.
I left Morocco changed for the better. That’s my favorite part about travel. You never return home the same person. It’s just impossible to see so many things, meet so many new people, learn so much about a new culture, and experience places like this and not be a better person because of it.
If you’re interested in joining me in Morocco in 2023, I still have spots open on my group trips. Feel free to send me a message if you’d like to chat more!